MACHO MAN LOSES TO TENDER PLAYBOY

The spring-summer 2001 menswear collections previewing in Milan last week speak of costume zentai a man who is tender rather than tough and prefers the easy road to the fast track.

The new millennium playboy inherits the persuasive charm and gold chains of his 1960s' uncle, but he is more fun-loving and less seductive.

He teases his hair, paints his toenails, rips his jeans and decorates his blazer. He emerges from the black underworld and basks in bright colours.

Even the businessman is caught up in the new spirit. He sheds pinstripes for shimmering techno fabrics and loosens his extra-wide sequin-sparkling tie.

Tuesday evening midway through the men's ''moda Milanese" week, Tom Ford for put his own hip spin on the playboy look.

The guy likes to take it easy in loose-fitting printed kimono pants worn with matching kimono shirt and canvas slippers.

When he steps out he sports a pair of patent-leather fatigue pants and a wide- lapelled blazer worn over a tuxedo shirt minus the bow tie.

He likes his hair on the long side and boyishly teased. Ties are extra-slim, slick shades a catsuits must.

Except for the discreet zentai of the pristine white shirts with oversized cuff purposely sticking out of the sleeve of a classic daytime suit, the collection is devoid of shiny accessories.

The golden quality of the collection is mainly in the tailoring.

From Dolce and Gabbana who kicked off the shows June 25, to early-in-the week shows by Fendi, Valentino and Versace the mood on the Milan runway has been upbeat.

To Donatella Versace this means rock beat, and there is much of rock star glamour in her new collection.

Models with pageboy hairstyles strutted down a golden runway in body- conscious suits with slim trouser and embroidered jacket. Their shirts, open to the waist, revealed heavy-duty chains and medals. Matching gold bracelets adorned their wrists.

Front-row guest Elton John felt right at home.

Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi also looked to the golden era of rock music for inspiration.

Hip-hugging, low-waisted pants with cuffs as wide as the lapels of the tight- fitting brocade jackets lined in butterfly silk print spoke of a disco dandy. Ultra sharp booties and a leather lunch box - the ''his" version of the all- rage baguette, completed the look.

Both in their signature collection and the young line D&G, Dolce and Gabbana interwove rock glamour with contemporary hip.

Thus a $30,000 Venetian brocade jacket can be worn with tattered jeans or a classic blue blazer can be paired with sweat pants. The common thread between the two collections is jewels - lots of them.

The front of a T-shirt was cluttered with glittering stones, neckties glistened in sparkling rhinestones, and heavy gold chains replaced the classic belt. Sandals were decorated with opulent embroidery.

Conservative Valentino shied from the overt gilded look, preferring to draw inspiration from the quiet of the isle zentai of Capri, where the designer has his summer retreat.

The show, set at a poolside scene recreated on a mega screen behind the runway, tells the tale of a playboy who sips martinis and eyes the girls behind his dark shades.

He comes to the isle in a pristine linen suit which he quickly sheds for a pair of classic slacks worn with a silk T-shirt under a cashmere sweater.

His bathing trunks are in silk jersey, his sandals forged in simple leather. Jewelry is replaced by a polka-dotted bandana worn around the neck or a twinkle of sequin on a monochrome tie.